Day #01 All Things Heavenly {Angelic Motifs in Fashion}

 Day #01 All Things Heavenly {Angelic Motifs in Fashion}

Nothing says style quite like a seraphim made of multiple wings, disembodied sets of eyes, spinning metal rings, and balls of fire. However, if you're looking for something a bit more accessible to the mortal soul, I would like to refer you to a variety of angels that are more commercial and whimsical rather than foreboding and beset by animal heads. Mind you, there's more to angels in the world of fashion than greeting cards and classical art. That's not to say that the following are distinct categories that are set in stone but merely my personal descriptions of the angelic styles seen throughout pop and sub cultures.

I hesitate to refer to this motif as 'angelcore', simply because all the recent -core styles are often fads, have intense gatekeeping that is nonsensical, or are just a marketing gimmick to get people on social media to buy stuff. I'm trying to keep shit ethereal here. Minimize the physical possessions. This is, after all, a thrift blog. Also note, the motifs I will be talking about are not religious, though they are often influenced by religious imagery, and exist simply in the fashion and art sense. And so, here are the angels:

Type 1: Bad Girl, White Wings (Or, the Costume)

The Jezebel with a halo. Sometimes made of cardboard. Usually without one at all, but white fluffy wings are a must. More of a movie trope than a real fashion statement, there are certain examples of antagonistic characters ironically backed by angel wings. 

Example A: this is especially prominent in one of my all time favourites, religious teen comedy, Saved! Mandy Moore plays hypocritical Hilary Faye, christian high school princess who throws bibles at others as she exclaims "I am filled with Christ's love!". She is not acting very godly but she doesn't know it, or doesn't want others to.

The trio (completed by Heather Matarazzo and Elizabeth Thai) put on the airs of being Charlie's Angels but under the watchful eye of Christ, or the principal, what ever puts the fear of God in them (you can pry the religious jokes out of my cold, dead hands). Appropriate track suits, girly and light make-up, and non-blasphemous angel wings. I think the look over-all is simple but fun, and looks both good with brown and powder blue. Though there is no doubt that Hilary Faye's vanity has led to her being in a unique colour while her sidekicks have to share a more dowdy brown.

Example B: A Cinderella Story's Shelby Cummings played by Julie Gonzalo. First, Shelby is a very funny name for a hot and popular girl. Otherwise, she is much like all those you already know. Conniving, going out with the guy the protagonist dreams of, and struggling with some kind of eating disorder which runs like a punchline instead of being taken seriously. Some things of the 2000s will not be missed and should be left in the afterlife. Amen!

Shelby's ensemble is a bit riskier for a Halloween dance but luckily we are at a secular school now. The actual items are not very angelic. A dated action-star top with an open front and lace and a very long tail. Shorts with lace, in a latex-like material. Very high boots and tall, bumped up hair. It's all finished off with a glimmering eye shadow and a very blushy lip gloss. What brings it all together are the angel wings (duh) and the colour. It's a very pale pink and it looks quite warm to me.

All three girls are quite monochromatic (a style of dress I support). I actually find Erica Hubbard's outfit the cutest. The short and none-patterned dress goes incredibly well with the fluff on the seams and the cuffs. Her near gladiator-like heels also do remind me of a more typical angel. Isn't it funny that these girls always come in three? It's the holy trinity at work, I tell you.

What I like about these outfits is probably what makes them tacky: they really look like costumes, and maybe even cheap costumes. I have an appreciation for camp and kitsch, so to me, those sound like features, not drawbacks. 

A more contemporary example I stumbled upon because I uncreatively searched 'angels in fashion' on Google, is a photo shoot styled by Izwan Abdullah. Angels as symbols of messengers is nothing new, but Abdullah's shoot provides a new purpose to the mythics. Angels as the connector between women's wear and men's wear. It's been only pictures of femme-presenting people as of now, but there's no rules about angelic styles not being masculine or non-binary. It is strange to still gender clothes. They are only clothes.

Unlike the previous more cinematic entries, Abdullah's shoot is more appreciative of composition that would be found in a 16th century painting. It's the glorious mixture of the modern and the fairytale, so ancient we don't even know when it started.

 

Here's a little for the imagination. The banality of costume or the regular outfit paired with angel wings can provide you with a little mystique. The reason those wings look so out of place is because no one should be able to see them, but you do. Hurray, you've spotted an angel! The combination of that which is impure or tainted, i.e. human, presenting as a deity of goodness is also an interesting narrative. I don't think of these false angels as being deceiving, but instead as very bitterly human and trying to appear as divine. 

If you like angel motifs in an ironic sense or with a bit of edge, this could be a fitting style for you to explore. It doesn't have to be so on the nose, big wings and all, but near everything goes.

Type 2: The Ethereal Angel

When people say 'angelcore', this is likely what they mean. There is also cherubcore but it's not substantially separate for me to consider it as a distinct sub-category. The ethereal look takes things quite literally: the angel is a pure being, it's filled with the sorrow it inherits from people, and it's often informed by it's long and frequently revisited history. There are no check boxes, but there are a number of features present in many ethereal looks:

Item 1: wings, halos, feathers, and common religious symbols. The overarching symbolism is not too different from what we've seen on the costume type, but it's intentions are not synonymous. In fact, the ethereal angel is very direct. Wings and halos and whiteness provide an appearance of innocence. It is actually quite a segregation. Typical angelcore has made movements to be more inclusive and diverse on social media and throughout it's bubble popularity on the internet, but it's roots and many practices are still hyper white-centric. I do not say this to condemn the aesthetic but just to broaden your view, that individuals with darker skin tones or non white features are no less angelic and do not belong any less in the aesthetic. However, there is no doubt that many sources of inspirations consist, if not entirely, then dominantly, of white people.

I think Claire Danes as Juliet in 1996's Romeo + Juliet is the epitome of the style. It's the essence of the modern ethereal angel boiled down to a single dress, a simple make-up look, and a pair of wings. Less frequent but similarly relevant symbols can also include crosses and rosaries. Danes herself has a small cross. Cherub figures, angel statues, and Rococo-period or even ancient Greek columns are motifs that often accompany the fashionable look.

Item 2: Lose clothing, silks, sheer fabric, lace. Finally, let's talk about the dress sense. There are no stringent rules but it is rare to see an item that is fitted all-around. The ethereal angel is more likely to have a fitted top but a lose skirt or sleeves. Sleeves are sometimes not present at all to make room for veils, scarves, boleros, or just sheer fabrics that surround the arms. Here nialeger on Tiktok provides what I find to be a very classic angelcore look with fun details such as a sheer cape, brown boots, and a small eye symbol in gold as a likely nod to the biblical angels.

White is assuredly the dominant shade but you are also likely to see peach, powder blue, pale violet, cream, and blushing pink. If floral print is present, it is likely understated. A nightgown is an easy go-to as it provides enough detail to hint to the aesthetic without having to strap on a cross or wings. While the previous type allows for more diversity, an ethereal angel is more likely to stick to simpler foot wear. Sandals, ballet flats, delicate heels, and dainty socks are the common trope. Unfortunately, I could not find a sources for the following images but I appreciate their simplicity so I would like to show them to you.

Even when going against it's historical roots based in whiteness and European features, there is still a huge focus on the style as femme-presenting and mostly for thin people. However, this is just a stereotype and style can be as easily enjoyed by fashionistas who are more masculine or larger in size. 

Please have a look at the following images. In order they are, an image without a source depicting a more casual look via the jeans but paired with a very ethereal background, Troye's Sivan's theme for his 2019 tour, an image by Teddy, and a look styled by Taeden of model Cindy.

Item 3: gold. Let's peak into the world of high fashion. In fact, we really need only one huge example as it's tied to one of the most beloved and celebrated designers of our age, Alexander McQueen. In his debut at Givenchy in 1997, he produced a collection that was deeply attached to Greek myth and imagery. Though he would later call the collection "crap", it's influence is still felt now. It's very extravagant, with an homage to the gold commonly seen with Givenchy, but has moments of more calm and softer looks. There are also angel motifs in his other collections, such as certain looks from 1999.

What is left of angels in McQueen's line is more celestial than heavenly. I have to ask, why gold and not silver? I don't have a definite answer but it is likely due to the influence of Rococo which I will speak on later in this post. Still, there is no denial that McQueen added to the correlation of the angelic and the gold shine of the stars.

Item 4: Rococo and classical art. Quite a broad component that informs the angelic style comes right off of the canvases of 18th century paintings. However, I find that the style also makes nods to even earlier works from the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries. From composition to light, the present ethereal angel prefers the realism of accurate human anatomy and high level of detail of such works to the art of the church. Both the Renaissance and the early modern period were a return to the classical form of art practiced by Ancient Greeks that was irrelevant to the Middle Ages. This is potentially why the iconography-like portrayals of angels of the Medieval period are less popular in this modern appearance. 

Clouds, romanticized nature and gardens, floral flourishes, harps, and harmonious blue skies. Adding a level of intricate decoration and frames totally cements the Rococo influence. Let's look at two paintings I have selected and observe how it reflects on the novel rendition of the ethereal angel.

First, we have La Toilette de Venus by Francois Boucher of 1751, a hot spot in time for the Rococo proclivity. I find that the art related to angelcore is much more relevant to mood than style. As such, the painting suggests an ideal state. In fact, the nude figure is Madame de Pompadour merely depicted as Venus. She too is attempting to chase perfection and respite in this angelic form. Many other assets are present, gold coats on many luxurious possessions. There are attentive cherubs, and white doves, and the pale, unblemished skin of the Madame, all in lovely pastels. We see darker colours too, a lovely contrast, in the dramatic curtain, the rich red of the covers, and the stone on which the group is posed.

There is no doubt that this image is as much a nod to aesthetic as it is a flaunting of status. This is not something that the new ethereal angel inherits, for it's own benefit in my opinion. I think it's draw is that it provides the feeling of divinity, spirituality, and grace while not having to spend outrageous amounts of money. In fact, it boils the symbolism of the Rococo, exuberant luxury and wealth, to an image that is a part of a simple and airy aesthetic.  

Item 5: Light and glitter. Francois Lemoyne's Apotheosis of Hercules (1733-1736) has less rich people and more depictions of a historical epic. But it's fair to note that it was created at Versailles and existed largely for the wealthy to appreciate. What is highly relevant to the current topic at hand is the dispersion of light seen in the work. It is incredibly soft but also with a very obvious border. It almost provides a vignette of light. 

Here is the interesting implication. Though we have seen the modern angel on screen, our most frequent consumption of the style is likely done through social media. It is always an image. As such, the creator knowingly produces the new halo; the intended light and bloom effect, filter, glimmer, and shine that is at home with the aesthetic. Though, certainly, it can be seen in film too, as with 1987's Date With An Angel.

Please observe the two following pictures: they are a promotional still from LaceMade and an image for which I could not find a source for.

Both images, with and without a background provide a very strong silhouette of the subject. Similarly, their bodies and faces are lit with a very diffused warm tone. The bunched fabrics and tufts of feathers become nearly blended due to the softness of the illumination. I think it takes quite a few pointers from not only the Rococo period but even from art of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Type 3: The Fallen Angel

Likely the most modern edition, the fallen angel is actually as old as time. The stories of God's servants submitting to darkness and becoming demons, devils, or the fallen is nothing new. And so, the fallen angel aesthetic can be defined by what it isn't. While it shares fundamentals with both the ethereal and the bad girl type, it is primarily a subversion of both. It says "I'm bad or evil, and there is no pretense that I'm not". I don't mean literally evil, a more apt description would be 'rejected'. After all, the tales of fallen angels are very tragic and extract, at least from me, significant empathy.

Visually, there is overlap with the previously seen styles but there are also new elements. Gravestones, statues depicting more violent or tragic events, fire, dark wings, stormy skies, and barren lands. The scene is set in gray, navy, black, and a dirtier white. To really raise the stakes, blood and poses that look shattered and broken are also employed. An interior shot by borrowedfeeling below is a great snapshot of the aesthetic.

Generally, as a facet of subversion, the fallen angel can be a vital criticism. Whether it is of the church, of the discrimination of those with mental illnesses, or the trauma of being othered, it can be a legitimate fashion or art statement protesting an injustice. However, it is similarly prone to be being vacant and all in appearance only. Even worse, it can slot itself neatly into being 'edgelord' paraphernalia. I don't mean it being cringe. We all need to embrace cringe and move on already. I mean that, like many alternative aesthetics, it can be co-opted by traditionalist far-right losers that lack a culture of their own. Here I will point to the social overuse of Alexandre Cabanel's The Fallen Angel. So, just beware to steer clear of that kind of territory.

White dresses are just as pertinent to the fallen angel, but are usually paired with darker and more gothic jewelry, piercing, and tattoos. Tattoos are a frequent addition that is unique to the fallen angel (out of all the angelic styles). However, they are not necessary as it is usually the setting and mood that cause the greatest rift. Think 'down-trodden'. Cigarettes, rundown rooms, suburban depression, grimy city scapes, unwashed tubs, pavement, and cemeteries. Clothing can be tattered, paired with ropes of textiles, stained, and otherwise in a state of disrepair. The following images are all without sources as reverse searching them only lists more re-posts, so I do apologize for that.

And so, at last, we reach the end of this post. You may argue that angels are such a hyper specific niche its no wonder it came and went as a fad and rarely pops up in more high-concept works. That may be true but I also think when we are drawn to something stylistically it is worthwhile to uncover what it is that we like about it and why. I find myself personally drawn to the style even though I don't really wear it myself. It may be because of the heavy intersection between art and fashion that I can always appreciate. Anyway, I'm not really a scholar so take what I think with a grain of salt and make your own assessment about the angelic style. There's a lot this post didn't cover so feel free to leave a comment about your own insights. See you tomorrow when I'll be writing about my love of boot-cut jeans!